Zennor

When we are in Cornwall we usually fit in a visit to the small village of Zennor, along the coastal road from St Ives. It's a lovely drive, with the Atlantic ocean to one side pounding the rugged, harsh coastline. D.H. Lawrence wrote 'Women in Love' while staying here. In the past we've had good food and convivial evenings with friends at the local pub, the 'Tinners Arms.'  The grand American abstract artist, Mark Rothko spent an evening here in 1959 together with like-minded friends from the Cornish art group. Rothko and his wife were in Cornwall for a total of three days and it sounds as though they had a great time, fitting in a meal at the Tinners, another at Gunnards Head, a bit of dancing and a lot of socialising. A good time was had by all! It always rather amazes us to think of Rothko in this small place.
On this occasion we were meeting friends for lunch at the Gunnards Head so we just stopped by briefly to look in the 12th century church of St. Senara.

The interior of the church is pleasingly simple

There are always fascinating histories to discover in old churches. What great praise for the character of yeoman John Quick who died in 1784 - hospitable, sociable, peaceable, humble, honest and devout, all of that before they even get round to mentioning his good manners!

But nowhere in Cornwall are we far from being reminded about the sea.

I like the way that the church roof resembles the structure of the hull of a boat.

The church of St. Senara is best known for the carving of Morveren the mermaid, the 'Mermaid of Zennor', depicted on a bench end that is 600 years old. The legend is that Morveren was enthralled by the singing of a handsome young villager called Matthew Trewalla. She would slip into the church to hear him sing the closing hymn then leave without being seen in time to catch the high tide. But one day Matthew caught a glimpse of her and fell instantly in love. He followed her, swimming out to sea to join her. They were never seen again.