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We've been bone idle for a week on holiday, soaking up the sun, positioned happily at the water's edge. Every morning the sand on the shoreline was raked, although not by Dick Diver. (My holiday reading was 'Tender is the Night'.)
We took a day off from the exertion of doing nothing and hired a car.
Everywhere we went there was nobody home.
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This Story
Beyond the ticket seller's stall
no one was in the town at all.
Dark poppies grew
and yellow-throated marguerites
in cracks and crevices about our feet.
Blue wash on walls and windows empty stare,
the houses spread out spaciously for air,
churches abandoned,
images like smoke,
no sign remaining of the banished folk.
A harsh cry from the pulpit roof,
the sound of wings.
This is no blessing and no angel sings.
But in one house, a photo on the wall,
a wedding group, the bride in twenties style,
a man plays music and the children smile.
Where are they now, the vanished, banished ones?
Repatriation.
Such a formal word to mask emotions deep
and leave these houses fast asleep.
No footsteps sound upon the street
but ours.
Why leave abandoned such a lovely place,
the fertile valley, houses on the hill,
churches and schoolrooms,
all this well-lived life?
The fear was retribution,
poisoned wells,
leaving the silence that this story tells.
Kayakoy, May 2011.
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Kayakoy was a thriving town with over one thousand houses. It had two cathedrals, fourteen chapels and two schools. It was populated by Greeks who had lived happily with their Turkish neighbours for generations until the Turkish Greek conflict of 1919-23. In 1923 the town was deserted overnight when all 25.000 inhabitants were repatriated to Greece.
It must have broken their hearts.
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Our hire car was tinny and the roads rough. It was noisy, and as we traveled up the hillside to visit the Lycian town of Tlos a shower of hailstones bouncing off the roof was deafening. The tombs carved into the hillside did not look inviting,
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and the Roman amphithearte was in a spectacular state of collapse.
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Car hire maps leave a lot to be desired and we traveled along a deserted unmade road in search of Pinara, Himself fearful of a puncture and being marooned in the middle of nowhere whilst I was certain that we were lost and that the road was too narrow for us to turn around. But eventually we arrived at a turning point and an abandoned ticket box.
The journey had been worth it, for on a grassy plateau we found this small Roman amphitheatre, beautifully positioned facing the remains of the town and the hills above, studded with Lycian tombs.
There was nobody home.
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Only this rather evil-smelling flower growing in a crack between the seating.
Dracunculus vulgaris
dragon lily.
After such a hectic day it was good to get back to doing nothing at all.